The Road to Tuweep and other Death Defying Adventures
I'm not quite sure why I thought the Angel's Landing hike would be manageable. I guess I assumed the nine or so people who had died doing the "hike" since 1983 had been careless. As I hung from a chain percariously perched above certain death I realized they probably had not been careless, just unlucky. I didn't finish what I no longer call a "hike" and am basically just glad we all got down alive.
It all starts innoncently enough on the shuttle bus. You get off and head up the trail for a nice hike through Zion Park. No problem, tra-la-la it is a beautiful hike and nice weather. At Scout's Landing, a sandy spot maybe two hours in the trail stops and the rocks start. It is no longer what I would call a hike because there is no trail, but hell, maybe I'm just picky. Instead of a trail there is a giant rock with chains on it. You are basically balanced against the side of this giant rock with air below you and chains to "assist". Chris was the first to decide this wasn't the best time she had ever had. KH, OK and I continued on from chain to spots without chains (YIKES!) to chain until we reached what I have heard referred to as Quitter's Point. Ahead lay the "spine" exposed to death on both sides going up to Angel's Landing. I felt lucky I had make it that far and knew I still had to get back. Several other people were stopped at the same place contemplating the same issues. I had had enough of a death defying adventure for one day and still had to get back across the abyss so decided visiting Angel's Landing was one dream I would have to forgo. KH had had enough as well. OK probably would have gone on if either of us had and I hope she gets to do it again some day. I inched my way back to safety hoping not to leave my daughters motherless as there is one spot where there really wasn't any ledge left to walk on. KH could reach across it since he's almost a foot taller than I am. OK walked out on a little outcropping below it without holding onto the chain and suggested I do the same. KH and I looked at each other in horror and I sorta lept across holding the chain while he grabbed me from the other side. I will NOT be doing that again. Ever. I was also very happy when KH said he saw Chris because that meant she was still alive. I am not kidding. I guess I have to finally admit I'm just getting too damn old for this stuff. As far as I'm concerned the way up to Angel's Landing is not a hike but rather a climb, just without the requisite safety gear.
The strenous hike to Observation Point the next day was thus a relief. We did get a little rain but actually walked vertically the entire way through great scenery including a magnificent canyon. People coming down told us there was a rattlesnake sleeping under a tree at the top and sure enough we found what OK thought and later verified was a diamond back. It is the first, and quite possibly the only and last, rattlesnake I have ever seen in the wild. And the view was spectacular and looked down (HA! Take That!) on Angel's Landing.
Since the world famous Narrows was running too high to hike because of snow melt, I had gotten us a permit for the Subway, another river hike in the Kolob section of Zion. We hurried to the Backcountry office on Tuesday after coming down from Observation Point to pick up our permit for the next day and encountered Rangerzilla. We figured she took one look at us (we are in better shape than we look, ok?) and assumed we didn't stand a chance in the river and proceeded to treat us like wayward children. We were relieved to hear from a younger, fitter (yeah, thinner) looking couple that evening that she had been quite negative to them as well. Weeeellll, turns out, at least regarding me, she was right. This adventure was not quite as death defying as Angel's Landing but we certainly never actually made it to the Subway. The water in the river was running high and walking through it would have involved lots of boulder hopping. We went along the banks which meant lots of up and down, find it impassable, look for a place to cross the river, up and down, find it impassable, look for a place to cross the river, ad infinitum until I went on strike. "That's it, I'm done, I'll just wait for you guys here." Well, splitting up didn't seem like a great option so we all headed back which still was something of a major feat since we had quite a serious, hot climb up to get back to the car. We had a cooler with cold beer in the car and that was, without a doubt, the best beer I have ever had.
Bryce was pleasant and uneventful except for Chris got sick. Page, AZ and especially Bashful Bob's Motel was strange. First, Bob wasn't there although his office was open and we waiting a long time. So we left for lunch. Came back and a French couple was there also looking for Bob. (He later told us his place is very popular with young French people.) OK finally decided he might be in trouble and was talking to the police when he wandered out of a nearby RV clearly just getting up from a nap.
OK was kinda freaked out by the place because it is pretty much of a dump. I can't recommend it unless your standards are low. While staying in Page we toured the Glen Canyon Damn, went to Lee's Ferry, looked at Horeshoe Bend and walked through lower Antelope Canyon. I hadn't told Chris about the tourists who had died in Antelope Canyon because I didn't want to freak her out but there is a small monument to them so it was hard to miss. Apparently they had been in there without a guide when the flash flood came. Lower is more challenging than Upper, according to what I've read, and the guide walked with us to a crack in the ground and indicated we should go in there so we did. Very weird, very beautiful and deadly in a flood; there would be no way to save yourself. I probably won't go in there again but if I am in the area will probably have a look at the Upper Antelope Canyon across the road. Very unfortunately, our power boat supported kayak trip out to Rainbow Bridge got cancalled because of high winds. Damn, that was pretty disappointing. My fear is by the time I get back to do it again I'll be too old. Oh, and even though all four of us tried separately none of us got a permit for the Wave. Maybe next time...
Since this was late May the main thing that surprised us at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon was the inch of snow we woke up to! I knew it would be chilly but I hadn't expected snow. We had thought about camping there so were happy we had gotten a cabin instead. We were planning on driving out to Tuweep and thought it wouldn't work with the snow so checked with a ranger who told us there wouldn't be any snow there since it was lower. Elevation matters!
So we started to Tuweep. The issue is the 60 miles of dirt, sand, rock road you have to cross to get there. KH and I had pretty much agreed without telling Chris and OK we would go until we got a flat and then turn around since we only had one spare. Also, it wasn't clear to me then or now if the rental car insurance was valid off pavement so was nervous about that as well. We had a great big SUV with four wheel drive but it wasn't a jeep. KH did a great job getting us to the primitive campground until we finally just had to stop because it was basically steep rock. The edge is about a mile from the campground and is spectacular but then pretty much any part of the Grand Canyon is. There are only 10 or some sites out there so it is quiet and isolated. I'm glad we went and am very thankful we didn't get a flat. The car was covered in dirt. Because the risk of a flat is so high, I doubt I'll ever go back. We did learn that you actually can fly internationally with enough camping equipment to actually camp providing your friends bring the cooking stuff.
Getting out of Tuweep was equally exciting and I was glad KH was driving and not me. On the way to St. George we stopped at a site on the way out with some ancient art which was interesting. We also stopped at an old abandoned school house which has been turned into a museum and there ran into a 13 person family which must have come from the nearby polygamist town of Colorado City. We were as fascinating to the kids, who we think had never seen anyone in shorts before, as they were to us in their old fashioned long dresses for the girls and long pants for the boys.
Since we had camping stuff with we had decided to spend another night camping and went to Snow Canyon State Park outside of St. George. It was a beautiful campgrounds and MUCH easier to get to than Tuweep. While there we drove up to Mountain Meadows to see a historic massacre site that OK and I had read about in Under the Banner of Heaven and also went to the Dinosaur Site Museum which actually might have been a dinosaur dance floor. I was really interested and impressed with both and was glad we stopped. I was also surprised at how nice a town St. George is.
Vegas was the next stop and we took Chris to the airport and OK, KH and I went to the Flamingo Hotel and enjoyed the pool and then dinner at Battaglia's around the corner that night before we flew out the next day. KH and I spent a few days in North Carolina hearing live country and bluegrass music and driving a bit on the Blueridge Parkway. Boy did that all look different from the Southwest!
It was a great trip and I hope my meniscus heals enough to I can keep hiking.
It all starts innoncently enough on the shuttle bus. You get off and head up the trail for a nice hike through Zion Park. No problem, tra-la-la it is a beautiful hike and nice weather. At Scout's Landing, a sandy spot maybe two hours in the trail stops and the rocks start. It is no longer what I would call a hike because there is no trail, but hell, maybe I'm just picky. Instead of a trail there is a giant rock with chains on it. You are basically balanced against the side of this giant rock with air below you and chains to "assist". Chris was the first to decide this wasn't the best time she had ever had. KH, OK and I continued on from chain to spots without chains (YIKES!) to chain until we reached what I have heard referred to as Quitter's Point. Ahead lay the "spine" exposed to death on both sides going up to Angel's Landing. I felt lucky I had make it that far and knew I still had to get back. Several other people were stopped at the same place contemplating the same issues. I had had enough of a death defying adventure for one day and still had to get back across the abyss so decided visiting Angel's Landing was one dream I would have to forgo. KH had had enough as well. OK probably would have gone on if either of us had and I hope she gets to do it again some day. I inched my way back to safety hoping not to leave my daughters motherless as there is one spot where there really wasn't any ledge left to walk on. KH could reach across it since he's almost a foot taller than I am. OK walked out on a little outcropping below it without holding onto the chain and suggested I do the same. KH and I looked at each other in horror and I sorta lept across holding the chain while he grabbed me from the other side. I will NOT be doing that again. Ever. I was also very happy when KH said he saw Chris because that meant she was still alive. I am not kidding. I guess I have to finally admit I'm just getting too damn old for this stuff. As far as I'm concerned the way up to Angel's Landing is not a hike but rather a climb, just without the requisite safety gear.
The strenous hike to Observation Point the next day was thus a relief. We did get a little rain but actually walked vertically the entire way through great scenery including a magnificent canyon. People coming down told us there was a rattlesnake sleeping under a tree at the top and sure enough we found what OK thought and later verified was a diamond back. It is the first, and quite possibly the only and last, rattlesnake I have ever seen in the wild. And the view was spectacular and looked down (HA! Take That!) on Angel's Landing.
Since the world famous Narrows was running too high to hike because of snow melt, I had gotten us a permit for the Subway, another river hike in the Kolob section of Zion. We hurried to the Backcountry office on Tuesday after coming down from Observation Point to pick up our permit for the next day and encountered Rangerzilla. We figured she took one look at us (we are in better shape than we look, ok?) and assumed we didn't stand a chance in the river and proceeded to treat us like wayward children. We were relieved to hear from a younger, fitter (yeah, thinner) looking couple that evening that she had been quite negative to them as well. Weeeellll, turns out, at least regarding me, she was right. This adventure was not quite as death defying as Angel's Landing but we certainly never actually made it to the Subway. The water in the river was running high and walking through it would have involved lots of boulder hopping. We went along the banks which meant lots of up and down, find it impassable, look for a place to cross the river, up and down, find it impassable, look for a place to cross the river, ad infinitum until I went on strike. "That's it, I'm done, I'll just wait for you guys here." Well, splitting up didn't seem like a great option so we all headed back which still was something of a major feat since we had quite a serious, hot climb up to get back to the car. We had a cooler with cold beer in the car and that was, without a doubt, the best beer I have ever had.
Bryce was pleasant and uneventful except for Chris got sick. Page, AZ and especially Bashful Bob's Motel was strange. First, Bob wasn't there although his office was open and we waiting a long time. So we left for lunch. Came back and a French couple was there also looking for Bob. (He later told us his place is very popular with young French people.) OK finally decided he might be in trouble and was talking to the police when he wandered out of a nearby RV clearly just getting up from a nap.
OK was kinda freaked out by the place because it is pretty much of a dump. I can't recommend it unless your standards are low. While staying in Page we toured the Glen Canyon Damn, went to Lee's Ferry, looked at Horeshoe Bend and walked through lower Antelope Canyon. I hadn't told Chris about the tourists who had died in Antelope Canyon because I didn't want to freak her out but there is a small monument to them so it was hard to miss. Apparently they had been in there without a guide when the flash flood came. Lower is more challenging than Upper, according to what I've read, and the guide walked with us to a crack in the ground and indicated we should go in there so we did. Very weird, very beautiful and deadly in a flood; there would be no way to save yourself. I probably won't go in there again but if I am in the area will probably have a look at the Upper Antelope Canyon across the road. Very unfortunately, our power boat supported kayak trip out to Rainbow Bridge got cancalled because of high winds. Damn, that was pretty disappointing. My fear is by the time I get back to do it again I'll be too old. Oh, and even though all four of us tried separately none of us got a permit for the Wave. Maybe next time...
Since this was late May the main thing that surprised us at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon was the inch of snow we woke up to! I knew it would be chilly but I hadn't expected snow. We had thought about camping there so were happy we had gotten a cabin instead. We were planning on driving out to Tuweep and thought it wouldn't work with the snow so checked with a ranger who told us there wouldn't be any snow there since it was lower. Elevation matters!
So we started to Tuweep. The issue is the 60 miles of dirt, sand, rock road you have to cross to get there. KH and I had pretty much agreed without telling Chris and OK we would go until we got a flat and then turn around since we only had one spare. Also, it wasn't clear to me then or now if the rental car insurance was valid off pavement so was nervous about that as well. We had a great big SUV with four wheel drive but it wasn't a jeep. KH did a great job getting us to the primitive campground until we finally just had to stop because it was basically steep rock. The edge is about a mile from the campground and is spectacular but then pretty much any part of the Grand Canyon is. There are only 10 or some sites out there so it is quiet and isolated. I'm glad we went and am very thankful we didn't get a flat. The car was covered in dirt. Because the risk of a flat is so high, I doubt I'll ever go back. We did learn that you actually can fly internationally with enough camping equipment to actually camp providing your friends bring the cooking stuff.
Getting out of Tuweep was equally exciting and I was glad KH was driving and not me. On the way to St. George we stopped at a site on the way out with some ancient art which was interesting. We also stopped at an old abandoned school house which has been turned into a museum and there ran into a 13 person family which must have come from the nearby polygamist town of Colorado City. We were as fascinating to the kids, who we think had never seen anyone in shorts before, as they were to us in their old fashioned long dresses for the girls and long pants for the boys.
Since we had camping stuff with we had decided to spend another night camping and went to Snow Canyon State Park outside of St. George. It was a beautiful campgrounds and MUCH easier to get to than Tuweep. While there we drove up to Mountain Meadows to see a historic massacre site that OK and I had read about in Under the Banner of Heaven and also went to the Dinosaur Site Museum which actually might have been a dinosaur dance floor. I was really interested and impressed with both and was glad we stopped. I was also surprised at how nice a town St. George is.
Vegas was the next stop and we took Chris to the airport and OK, KH and I went to the Flamingo Hotel and enjoyed the pool and then dinner at Battaglia's around the corner that night before we flew out the next day. KH and I spent a few days in North Carolina hearing live country and bluegrass music and driving a bit on the Blueridge Parkway. Boy did that all look different from the Southwest!
It was a great trip and I hope my meniscus heals enough to I can keep hiking.
posted by Terry at 5:06 PM
